Klondike Highway - Carmack & More!

The Klondike Highway resembles the Alaska, but is a bit narrower, and at least initially, smoother. The travel guides and books al agreed on a “must stop” just north of Whitehorse – Mom’s Bakery. Located near the end of a small, curvy dirt road we arrive only to find they’re closed (it’s not quite “season” here, Eh!). Not being one to be easily discouraged, I found the back door, gave a knock, and sure ‘nuf, none-other than Mom herself answers with a warm greeting. Explaining our situation, and the departure from the Highway, just for a loaf of her wondrous treat, she obliged by bringing forth a piping hot loaf of “fresh from the oven” rye….”cooked for the family”. Wow, the smell permeated the truck within minutes, forcing an emergency pullover for a mid-morning snack. My mouth is still watering!
The artsy Native Peoples community of Carmacks was founded by THE legendary George Carmack, finder of the “Discovery Claim” (the largest single strike in the Klondike http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/yt/dawson/natcul/natcul6_E.asp ). One knows that art is dominant here just by taking a close look at the intricate mosaic on the community sign.




The town is home to the Tage Cho Hudan Cultural Center. Staffed by a couple of knowledgeable young Native ladies, we were given a personal tour which included a complete history of the Peoples and the area prior to the 1898 Gold Rush. In addition for being known for the Native art, especially the intricate leather and bead-work, the local streams are home to a large source of jewelry grade agate.



And if that isn’t enough, the town inspired the writing of a Wilson Pickett song (no, I can’t figure out what he was doing up here either!).

The Highway has the only remaining Roadhouse from the Gold Rush, still standing on what was originally the Overland Trail, without the help of any restoration or preservation.

Whitehorse

If we had to live along the Alaska or Klondike Highways, White would be the place we’d choose! With an interesting history, this quaint river-town, offers a nice balance of modern conveniences & areas against an well-defined old downtown. Although much of the downtown is “touristy”, it doesn’t appear that way, with many shops & restaurants catering to, and filled with locals as well.
http://www.whitehorse.vic.gov.au/Page/page.asp?Page_Id=41&h=0

We arrived late Sunday afternoon, and immediately hit the Wal-Mart. Bob & Joy were running very low on groceries and we knew this would be the last major stop before Fairbanks. Our intention was to boondock right, there, but the lot was crowded & noisy. Joy had the perfect solution…let’s run over to Yukon Brewing Company and sample some fine Canadian ales. Within minutes we were standing there with Bill, a local college student who manned the brew-bar as a part-time job. As I sipped the first trial, I noticed that he poured a glass for himself and drank right along with us…hey, now this is like Louisiana, not only can you drink on Sunday, but the bartender can right along with you! In case you’re having trouble reading the label, my favorite was “Lead Dog Ale”, very fitting, Eh! (yeh, we’re pickin’ up this Canadian lingo) http://www.yukonbeer.com/home.php

As we drove down along the River, we stumbled upon the Klondike, a famous old river steamer well preserved by the Canadian Parks Service. One of the rangers suggested a 3 mile walk up the Yukon, down the opposite side and back. The views of the River were perfect for this late stroll, and even included some interesting flora & animal life along it’s sides. We returned to the trailer late (you can’t say “just as it got dark” up here…it doesn’t) and decided to stay right there, which was quiet, peaceful, with a great view of the River.

Bob & Joy moved on the next morning. They are on a much tighter schedule, having to leave Alaska by mid to late July to get back to Louisiana. Kim & I plan to stay as long as weather permits. That being said, we spent the day downtown, catching up on email first, then doing a bit of shopping. Realizing we’d probably never return to this area, we splurged a bit and bought a few pieces of art….yes, Cookie, I know we live in a tiny trailer!

The plan is the hang a couple of the light pieces on the trailer walls and ship the rest to Louisiana, for that day when we might own a “non-mobile” home again.

I couldn’t pass up this Inuit carving of an eagle and some spirits on the caribou antler.

We both fell in love with the unique loon made from Five Finger Rapids driftwood by Noble Needham, who is a fellow RV’er and spends the summers combing the River for unique pieces of wood to become the subject of his beautiful cravings during those long dark winters.

Kim found the paintings of Nathalie Parenteau interesting and appropriate for us and the adventure we’re on, and I thought her name sounded “from Louisiana”, so we just couldn’t pass this set of three up! http://www.pixelmapper.com/Nat/NatIndex.html

We drove Northward on the Klondike Highway deciding to make the loop up through Dawson City and the “Top of the World” Highway. Interestingly, one of the first stops was “Five Finger Rapids”, where Noble had found the driftwood, how appropriate!

YUKON TERRITORY & the Signpost Forest

I remember hearing and reading stories from childhood about the Yukon. It has the distinct honor of being THE Canadian province that provides the link between the lower 48 and Alaska, and is the subject of many a story of the late 1800 goldrush. Equally famous, the Yukon River has been the dream of many a canoeist, and continues to be the setting for many great paddles and several major canoe races today. http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/index.cfm?PgNm=TCE&Params=A1ARTA0008772
http://www.yukonriverquest.com/

Just as we cross into the Yukon Territory, we get a pulloff for our first view of this mighty legend...and this is only near its origin. We begin to imagine what it will be like as we proceed northward & westward towards the sea.

Today we see many more bears, I think I remember counting eight, and a few other black colored creatures that always seem to show up at any snack or lunch break.

As we are cruising through the small community of Watson Lake, we notice an interesting park over to our right. Something told us this deserves a closer look. It is in fact the "Signpost Forest" started by a WWII soldier and continuing today with over 70,000 signs!
http://www.yukoninfo.com/watson/signpostforest.htm

The photo here doesn't begin to show the rows & rows of colorful contributions that come from all over the world....


Moving through, enjoying the variety and uniqueness of the many posts, I begin to look for signs from Louisiana, and start to find a few.


Since we had not learned about this place in advance, we were not prepared with one of our own, but soon after arriving, I hear Joy screaming, "look, come see, hey, get over here". And to our surprise, she had found laying on the ground way in the back, the perfect sign for us to use!


Bob & I did a little cleaning & fixin' and with the help of a few new screws and a drill-gun, we put this baby back in business...right near the front row. So, when you go through, be sure and look for us here!

ALASKA HIGHWAY - Liard Hot Springs

If you are ever, ever on the Ak Hwy, this is an absolute must stop. We spent three wonderful days & nights here, and definitely re-enforced our love of the Canadian Provincial Parks.

These folks seem to have a knack for picking nice spots, constructing & maintaining clean beautiful spaces and deliviering them at a bargain price ($12 per nite typically, which includes firewood at many!). Liard Springs is certainly no exception, and offers even more! Imagine having your own spa in a lush tropical setting, in the middle of a campground in the far North. What a deal!

We took advantage of the soothing waters at least twice a day, and on the final morning, I opted to grab the camera and document this intriguing spot.

As I approached the 1/4 mile long boardwalk that links the camping area to the Springs, I noticed a lone photographer up ahead. Of course, it was Bob, out early checking out the birds.

On closer inspection I found the subject of his long lens, enjoying early feeding in the warm ponds that eminate from the hot waters above. As I myself took closer look for a shot, I began to wonder just who was watching who....

The vegetation thickens along the boardwalk as the water & surface temps rise closer to the source of this continuous warmth. It's bizarre to see the tropical greenery growing out here with snow-capped peaks looming in the distance.

I finally reach the "Alpha Pool" to find it's waters steaming as usual, since the air temp is about 50 degrees F.

The source of the heated liquid is at one end, coming out at roughly 125, too hot for one to enjoy. But, further down the Pool, the hot waters are tempered a bit, and I find Kim bathing in luxury near the far end!

ALASKA HIGHWAY - Mile 0

Well, we finally made it to Dawson Creek, the start of the incredible Alaska Highway. The Highway, constructed by the US Army in only 8 months in 1942 as a direct result of the Japanese bombing of Pearl harbor. The route provided a method of getting protective troops & equipment to defend the extreme northwestern approach to North America from possible attack. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaska_Highway

Although we spent a day & a night here in Dawson, the town didn't offer much interms of local interest, mainly a place to buy groceries & supplies for the long drive up and over to Alaska. We did manage to find both "signposts" for the start of the Highway, so nothing would do other than to have photos of each...

We took turns shuffling trailers and cameras and laughed at each other for making all the fuss about this momentus event. I began to wonder "maybe we should save all the celebrating for the other end!"
So, that being said, we found ourselves moving ahead on the famed road the next morning, and to our surprise, the Highway was in much better shape than suspected.

There was very litle traffic along the route, and many small establishments were closed & boarded up....I guess those high gas prices really are starting to have an effect....

While Kim & I found stopping at the stll ice laden lakes fascinating, Bob & Joy spotted another "lifer" bird, the Harlequin Duck...

The drive was relaxing and beautiful.... with many, many spots like these along the way.