July 29, 2007

Canada - Pukaskwa & Hattie Cove

We ventured on to the Pukaskwa Provincial Park ... what a great spot. It is a huge area, and we were able to both paddle and hike there.
The first morning proved clear and very calm waters, so we opted for a canoe paddle in Hattie Cove. The Cove is very well sheltered from Lake Superior, with only a very narrow outlet into a couple of long fingers, then on into the Lake.









Again, we were amazed at how clear the waters were, even in the fingers & Cove.

We decided to paddle the solo canoes since in protected waters. The view out into the Lake looked like glass.
So, old Sam just couldn't resist taking the canoe out for a closer look. It was immediately apparent when the Superior waters were reached. A sudden darkening of the water, with large rolling swells taking the bow up & down. Even on a calm day, the Lake warns one of it's awesome power, and unforgiving temperment in winds or storms.

It didn't take long to turn back to the protection of the Cove. The safe harbor afforded ships of the past was clearly evident with wood & chain remnants of past mooring sites.


















Nothing like a picture perfect day on the water!
An important aspect of this area in Ontario is the Lake Superior Coastal Trail. Although we did not do the entire 45KM, we did pieces here & there. We decided to do Hattie Cove to White River with an overnight stay. The hike started out along the cove through an interesting marsh area that reminded us of Louisiana. The trail was made significantly easier by the many long boardwalks through the soupy growth.

As we moved into the forrest, the terrain was similar to parts of the AT.

The major difference was the fauna encounted...a few familiar, and all very beautiful!




It was a long warm and somewhat "buggie" hike to the White River. We had been warned that the swinging bridge there was high (about 120 feet off the water). And with it's open steps and a 30 mph wind swinging it was exciting!



The River is fast and interspersed with strong rapids, making it unsuitable for most paddlers.

We made camp at an isolated cove that was off of the main Lake a few miles East of Hattie Cove. The spot was protected, yet open enough to get a nice breeze and keep the mosquitoes away.

The next morning we found that a couple of large visitors had the same idea!














The morning campfire with that great "dark espresso coffee" just can't be beat...what a life!

The hike back was just as enjoyable, especially the trek through the marsh again.




Back at camp the next day, we found more visitors, a bit smaller, but aggressive when it came to looking for handouts!

The little creatures insisted we make one last hike before leaving - The beach near where the Pic River meets Superior. The amount of driftwood was almost unbelievable, stretch for a quater mile or so, with no interruption.



One of the local beavers must have been a paddler, and recentlt had portaged his canoe through the area.
The opening at the mouth of the Pic provided a nice spot for reflection on what a great week this had been!












July 25, 2007

Canada - Rossport Area

We visited the small, sleepy town of Rossport while on the way to our next campsite. Even with a little fog on the lake, the area is beautiful!

Set in a deep bay, with many many islands out towards and into Lake Superior, it is a favorite paddling place for Americans & Canadians alike.

While passing through, we noticed a small gravel road leading out to Nicol Island. While looking at a lot for sale, we discovered Island Pottery. What a neat place, nestled in the woods high on a cliff overlooking the bay!

Of course we left with a small bowl for the trailer (hey, what's another few ounces!)


We found a nice spot for our campsite that afternoon.

It was a dreary, foggy morning the next day when we launched into Rossport Bay on a small beach just East of Nicol Island. With air temp in the low sixties, and water temperature in the low fifties, we wore our new NRS Hydraskins (lite-weight wet suits).








The additional warmth was comforting as we eased out into the foggy islands ahead.


At times I wondered if we might lose sight of one another,

but the wind was just high enough to keep the fog moving and dissipating.



A lone loon was the only other live body visible on the water as we paddled farther out towards the small opening between Quarry & Healey Islands to Channel Island.

Our destination was Little Lake, a small body of water located within Wilson Island linked to the Channel by a 30 foot wide opening of crystal clear water. The only ting of interest within was the skeletal remains of an old boat, beached on the northern shore.

After lunch, the sun began to burst through openings in the low foggy ceiling. Were it not for a reminder – a large boat leaving the Rossport Marina to our West – cutting through the foggy waters in the distance, one would have sworn the Lake was clear with great visibility for miles!
We moved on to Neys Provincial park, had some very nice beach walks including discovering more abandoned boats.























July 22, 2007

Canada - Nipigon & Quimet Canyon Area

Nipigon is noted for amethyst in the area, and our campground took full advantage of this with a nice display (for sale, of course).


We were especially taken by the professional and spacious internet office....



Although the town had a couple of nice gardens, and a very friendly and helpful amyor, we found the Nipigon River paddle it's main treat. Starting at the town marina, we made the 8 mile paddle (almost out to Lake Superior) crossing the 49th parallel to find some cliffs with pictographs we had heard about. The images were in very poor shape, with intermixed grafetti. The winds were quite brisk from the south, and pushing against the swift current flowing to the lake made for an exciting paddle back. It was too rough to get a picture, but Kim insists the rear of my kayak went under several times.

The next morning we visited Quimet Canyon. This area also had Indian history, and folklore tells of the face in the rock below being frozen into the Canyon centuries ago.


A short hike crossing an interesting bridge brought us to the side of the glacial etched crevasse.







Further down the trail below the Canyon we discovered Rainbow falls, and a nice cool hike through woods where the columbines and mushrooms thrived.













The rapid flow around this circular rock was unique.



On the hike out there was evidence of Indian occupation, a small cooking pothole in one of the rocks near the creek.


We also were amused that those Indians had the same problems with 18 wheelers that we have today.